As part of HSE Fashion Days at the «Tsvetnoy» department store, we created a stand dedicated to our research, «Trend Dependency.» We integrated data analysis, material studies, and an interactive installation to prompt visitors to reflect on fashion’s influence on brands and their own clothing choices.
From Research to Concept Design
The main research question is: where does trend analysis end and dependence on trends begin? We analyzed seven Russian brands: Befree, Lime, Look Online, Arligent, You Wanna, Walk of Shame, and Ushatáva. The assessment included four criteria: the proportion of trends in the assortment, the markup on trend items, the percentage of trend pieces among discounted products, and the organic nature of trend implementation within the brand’s DNA. Additionally, we surveyed 80 people to correlate the brands' strategies with consumer attitudes toward fashion.
Key Outcomes
Seventy-six percent of respondents indicated that trendy items account for no more than a quarter of their annual purchases. Furthermore, 93% noted that an item can lose its fashion relevance before it is physically worn out. According to our evaluation system, Befree was the most trend-dependent, while Ushatáva demonstrated the least dependency. The study revealed that brands' active use of trends does not always align with consumers' need to constantly update their wardrobes. This discrepancy served as the starting point for the installation.
Visual language of the booth
We filled the metallic mesh of the stand with interwoven bands of materials. Tiffany blue, cherry hues, fur, lace, and glossy surfaces translated fashion codes from apparel into the spatial design. The combination of diverse textures continued the theme of an image assembled from multiple trends. On the poster, we displayed the research criteria, brand ratings, survey results, and a QR code linking to the full report.
The central figure became a cardboard cutout of a girl. We constructed her look using a crocodile leather handbag, a fur scarf, a hussar jacket, a Tiffany-colored long-sleeve top, cherry leather pants, and jelly shoes. Each element is a recognizable fashion code. By combining them into one look, we posed the question: what happens to an individual’s uniqueness when the desire to conform to trends dictates their entire appearance?
For the installation, we ordered a treadmill and placed a figure of a woman in front of the visitor. The scenario suggested that the participant step onto the treadmill and literally begin moving along with the trends. The person walks or runs, exerting effort, but remains in place. Thus, the treadmill becomes a metaphor for the endless race to keep up with relevance: while we strive to catch one trend, the next one has already replaced it. The interaction allows the participant to feel this chase through their own movement.
Our booth translates research findings into tangible experience and connects two questions: how a brand can preserve its identity and how an individual can maintain personal style. Trends can offer ideas for self-expression. What is important is how much space they occupy in our decisions and how consciously we choose them.
